The Musée d'Orsay and the Rodin Museum

May 16, 2019 — Day 7 (Thursday)

We planned to take the #83 bus to the Musée d’Orsay. We got on the first #83 bus and validated our tickets only to be told that particular bus ended at Gare Montparnasse. We got off wondering what to do and a kindly French lady offered to explain to the next driver. He arrived; she explained and we had no trouble at all. We got off at the Solferino-Bellechasse stop and quickly walked to the Musée d’Orsay. There was no line at all. We walked right in, zipped through a very cheerful security check and bought twin tickets to both the Orsay and the Rodin Museums.

We entered and found ourselves lost. They’ve moved things around a lot. We climbed and escalated to the top floor to beat the crowds and see the Impressionists with as little confusion as possible. On the way we noticed they modernized their formerly gorgeous restaurant . . . very modern and utilitarian now, not nearly as pretty. We got to see a lot, but tours and school groups soon arrived and it was life as usual with overwhelming crowds. We found some Millet downstairs and my beloved Rosa Bonheur, but never did find Millet’s “The Angelus.” Next time . . . Click here for the Musée d'Orsay web site

Vincent Van Gogh, "The Church in Auvers-sur-Oise"

Musée d'Orsay

At noon we walked to Café de l’Empire and got the last two seats. The restaurant was packed, had the same 10.90 euro menu from five years ago and the same cheery waitress. Had a great lunch . . . confit de canard and nougat ice cream with dark fudge sauce. While the men paid the bills, the lady next to me started a chat. Her English was on a par with my French but it was fun and she told me about a couple exhibits we might like. [Cafe de l'Empire is at 17 Rue du Bac, 75007 and has a Facebook Page]

We walked to the Rodin and since we already had our tickets, we went right in. Took a picture of the Thinker and then went into the beautiful Hôtel Biron to see the collection. Camille Claudel has pretty much disappeared. I think she has her own museum now so perhaps her works have been moved there. A fun discovery was that Rodin painted. He was good, loose, but good. Went through the house and headed for the garden where we stopped for hot tea on a chilly day. In the garden we met a lone American woman who was upset the sculptures weren’t identified so we told her what she was looking at and then sent her over to the section where they had information. Camille Claudel was missing from the garden too. Click here for the Rodin Museum web site

Walked back to Raspail to get our #83 bus home We stopped at a different boulanger and grocer on the way home. Long day, but fun.