A Paris walk and an evening concert

This morning I texted Anne, the actual apartment owner, about the missing breadboard and nonworking television to see if we could get it taken care of . . . and not expecting much. Ed brought a box of cards with different walks in Paris so we showered, ate breakfast, grabbed our umbrellas and headed out for a “Paris Walk #21" centered on rue du Bac. We had no trouble finding it and found most of the things listed. We visited the Grand Epicerie of Paris (in Bon Marché), a marvelous supermarket where we forced ourselves to not buy anything . . . even Valrhona chocolate!
The Grand Epicerie web site (the Sevres-Babylon Metro exit and walk back one block to La Grande Epicerie in the second Bon Marché building.)

Following the Paris Walk card, we searched out the Ste. Catherine Labouré Shrine of the Miraculous Medal and entered. It is small but very intense. There is a chapel and a tiny garden with a gift store. When we left, we continued to the end of our scripted walk. Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal web site

The walk ended near St. Sulpice so we decided to go over. We discovered the the scaffolding is down and it is beautiful. There is a book fair in front, but in the rain it was not enticing so we went to our favorite restaurant, La Bastide d’Opio for lunch. I got the beef brochettes and they were tender and delicious. Peg had them the last time so it seemed like a good idea. It was! Ed got the magret de canard and it was equally good. We both got the moelleaux de chocolat for dessert . . . fabulous! While I was visiting the facilities, Ed met the very attractive blonde sitting next to us and she was fascinating . . . M.A. in French architecture, studied French at the Sorbonne and was an antiques dealer. We chatted for nearly an hour and then parted to face the drizzle outside. La Bastide d'Opio, 9 rue Guisarde, 75006 Paris; tel: +33 (0)1 4329-0184; [The restaurant is now closed. The owner retired and sold it. The chef moved to another place across from the Saint-Germain Market. The food is fine but the ambience isn't there.]

We wanted to find Ste. Clotilde and decided to walk down blvd. St. Germain so naturally came immediately to Eglise St. Germain and couldn’t resist a short visit. It’s a lovely old church facing the Zadkine statue and Les Deux Magots brasserie across the square. I took a lot of pictures and we left, passing the three famous cafés, Les Deux Magots, Café de Flore and Brasserie Lipp. It was a lovely walk down blvd. St. Germain except the rain started getting worse. By rue de Bac it was pouring so we stopped at a café for coffee and tea to wait out the rain. We had a lot of company! Everyone was escaping the deluge.

When the rain let up, we continued along the boulevard. We found Ste. Clotilde at the end of a small park, took park and church photos and entered. It is beautiful. We couldn’t believe we hadn’t heard of it. The organist was practicing so we had a concert as we toured the basilica. He had a Kindle-like tablet for his music. Ed said he was staying as long as the music continued so we finally sat down and enjoyed the private recital.

Walked back to our apartment and stopped at Eric Kayser for our nightly demi-baguette. The girl remembered Ed and proceeded to tease and flirt with him. We seem to be part of the neighborhood at this point. We ate our dinner, put photos on the computer and changed for the concert. The sun finally came out as we ate!

Walked back to Ste. Clotilde, about a fifteen-minute walk, and got in the line for tickets to the Fauré "Requiem" when an older man walked over and offered us two tickets for 20 euros (they cost 30 euros). He had the tickets and his wife was ill so they couldn’t go. Whee . . . Fauré at a discount. We paid him and entered, getting seats near the front.

The concert was magic in the beautiful old church. I was entranced by the soprano section who managed to sound like a boy choir. The group was called back for three encores! Great evening.