Saint-Germain-en-Laye & the National Archeology Museum

May 30, 2019 — Day 21 (Thursday)

We got up early to take the Metro to Opera where we got tickets on RER-A to Saint-Germain-en-Laye. A very helpful RATP employee at Auber Station got our tickets for us and we were off. It’s a fairly short and comfortable ride, and there is a very useful escalator at the Saint-Germain-en-Laye station that delivers you directly to the château where the museum is located.

We had to wait a few minutes for the opening of the Musée d’Archéologie Nationale et Domaine National de Saint-Germain-en-Laye where they were having a special exhibit “Henri II Renaissance in Saint-Germain-en-Laye.” Ed had just finished a book on Henri II and that was the reason for our trip to Saint-Germain-en-Laye today. We got tickets for Henri II and the regular archeology exhibits. We started with Henri II and it was an excellent, if poorly lit, exhibit that ended in the beautiful chapel. [Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye; Place Charles de Gaulle, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye; tel: +33 (0)1 3910-1300; Click here for the National Archeology Museum and Château]

We walked back and upstairs to start the archeology exhibits and got through half the floor before hunger attacked so we left to find lunch. We checked a couple places across the street and decided to walk to Le Manège where we had eaten before. We walked in, were warmly greeted and shown a table but could hardly hear the waitress because the restaurant was playing “Go Johnny, Go” incredibly loud. We immediately realized we couldn’t stand that much noise during lunch so we politely excused ourselves and quickly left. I didn’t like Chuck Berry when I was a teen and wasn’t going to be bombarded full blast with him in my golden years. We walked back down rue St. Louis until we came to L’Amnesia with an acceptable menu, entered, were seated and sat down in blessed silence. We ordered the confit de canard and were enjoying our meal when the music started. Nasty. When the waitress appeared, I asked if it would be possible to turn down the music. She cheerfully agreed and actually turned it off so we could finish our meal in peace. I hope she has a long and happy life! [L’Amnesia Café, 2 Place André Malraux, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye; tel: +33 (0)1 3921-7534; Click here for the L'Amnesia Café Facebook site]

After lunch we returned to the château and finished the last floor and a half of the museum. Then we crossed the street to Église Saint-Germain, a beautiful neo-classical building with lovely murals and some very interesting stained glass. The excellent organist was practicing so we sat down and enjoyed the recital. When he finished, we walked out and took the escalator down into the RER where our train was waiting. [Église Saint-Germain, 4 Place Charles de Gaulle, 78100 Saint-Germain-en-Laye; tel: +33 (0)1 3451-9911; Click here for the Église Saint-Germain web site]

We arrived back at the Auber RER station in Paris and had to exit and walk a few blocks to the #7 Metro. The streets were jammed with cars and humanity . . . Paris in full tourist mode. There was a band playing on the steps of the Garnier Opera but we didn’t stop since our tickets were only good for 90 minutes. We fought through the crowds and descended into the Metro. We didn’t get seats together but we did get seats and were soon home. Ed made a grocery run and we’re in for the night.