The Marmottan-Monet Museum and Ranelagh Park

May 25, 2019 — Day 16 (Saturday)

Woke to Metro closed notices all over town due to various manifestations. We decided to try the Marmottan-Monet Museum and carefully plotted a Metro route staying south of all the demonstrations. It took us an hour to get there, but we had no trouble, arrived near opening and encountered no lines. Easily bought tickets and entered. We went through the permanent collection for the most part, at least what was on the first two floors. The Illuminations were open this visit and we were delighted because we hadn’t seen them the last time. They now have two galleries devoted to Berthe Morisot that we thoroughly enjoyed. Back to the ground floor and the special exhibition on Oriental Influences. It was interesting but not my favorite subject. Then we discovered a new basement gallery that is a terrific addition to the museum. There was an exhibit by Gérard Fromanger who has a great sense of humor. The rest is nearly all Monet and the last gallery captured the atmosphere of the Waterlily Room at the Orangerie. It is a large elliptical gallery with Monet’s works, many water lilies hung around the ellipse. I was struck by how complete and ethereal some of his early paintings are and they are hung beside other paintings that look almost like children scribbling with crayons or pastels. Completely different styles!

The following information was on a plaque in the museum: Twice a year the Marmottan decided to invite artists to create a work in resonance with the permanent collections. This white card entitled "Unexpected Dialogues" was to be inaugurated by Fromanger. The year 2017 was devoted to discussions. With hindsight, this expectation can be read today as the beginnings of a meeting. At the end of 2017 while the preparations for the dialogue were still confidential, Fromanger drew a series of sixteen portraits of painters from past and present, from Giotto to Bruce Nauman. Through these tributes (a recurring practice at home since the 1970s), Fromanger brought together a community of artists who form the circle of his friends, the title he gives to this series. Musée Marmottan Monet, 2 Rue Louis Boilly, 75016 Paris; tel: +33 (0)1 4496 5033; Official web site of the Marmottan-Monet Museum

Naturally you exit into the gift shop which we enjoyed but didn’t buy anything. We left and walked back through Ranelagh Park to Atelier de la Muette, a patisserie-tea room where we had magret de canard, their daily special. For dessert they bring a tray of their delicious pastries and you choose what you want. I had a Chocolate Royal and Ed the Millefeuille. Yum! [Atelier de la Muette Tea Room, 8 Chaussée de la Muette, 75116 Paris; tel: +33 (0)1 4527 5010;] Atelier de la Muette web site

We left the restaurant and followed a Paris Walk down rue de Passy and Passy blvd. to rue de l’Albioni where we turned for the Passy Metro. It’s a dead end and you go down a flight of stairs on the other side of the train tracks depending on the direction you are going. We went down on the right toward Nation and got on the nearly empty train that quickly filled as we crossed town. It’s fourteen stops to our correspondence and it was packed by then. We appreciated our seats. Made our transfer and went to Androuet, our favorite fromager. Got wine at Franprix and bread at Saines. Mass is at 6:30 so we had time to check accounts, transfer pictures and do the journal. Quelle surprise – it was raining when we got out of the subway and later we had a fierce shower. We’ll take umbrellas to church.